What we look for in a good moisturiser

A good moisturiser is more than hydration and protection, it can be a bit confusing though.

Moisturisers have two important functions, to rehydrate the top layer of skin cells and to reduce moisture loss. You will want thicker moisturiser in winter containing more of the lock in ingredients and a thinner one for summer as your skin produces more oil itself at this time of year.

There are 3 key ingredients we look at:

Moisturising ingredients - ingredients such as solutions and oils which hydrate the skin, particularly important for dry skin, but also essential to keep our skin supple and glowing. Look for ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides, sodium PCA, glycerin, glycerol, silicones, petrolatum, salicylic acid, and alpha hydroxy acids.

Humectants - look for moisturisers with alpha hydroxy acids, also called fruit acids, such as lactic acid or glycol acid. Moisturisers with alpha hydroxy acids tend to hold moisture in the skin longer than other moisturisers helping to plump the skin. If your are not used to them they can sting a bit, just use smaller amounts while your skin gets used to them. The optimal pH value of skin on most of our face and body lies between 4.7 and 5.75. A pH of 7 (that of pure water) is considered neutral. Anything below that is acidic and above it alkaline, so skin's natural pH is mildly acidic, so it is natural that we will want our moisturisers to be in order to keep a healthy pH.

Emollients - Emollients help stop water loss while developing a silky feel by filling the gaps between skin cells and develop a radiant appearance. Emollients can include non-fragrant plant oils, shea butter, cocoa butter, fatty acids, borage oil, linoleic acid, oleic acid, coconut oil, evening primrose oil, sunflower oil, and mango butter.

Antioxidants - We need these to protect the skin and help it repair damage caused in particular by sun, but also solution, wind and toxins we ingest. Green tea extract (epigallocatechin gallate is particularly well researched), grape extract, resveratrol, vitamin E, vitamin C, ferulic acid, superoxide dismutase, quercetin, willow herb extract.

We also recommend SPF 30, maybe more, sun and smoking are the two fastest ways to age your skin,

There are also things we avoid:

Fragrance we tend to avoid as it can irritate and is not needed to promote healthy skin

Jars, daylight can destroy active ingredients as can contact with the air, a wide lid and clear glass is a bad combination.

Finally don’t be a stranger, I am always there to chat through your skin concerns and offer advice rebecca@faceplace.com